Atelier Binchotan Pyro Pleasure

What Chiefeater VK Ordered at Atelier Binchotan

I scored a rare seat at Atelier Binchotan in Taman Desa, thanks to Chiefeater Luke Soon who couldn’t make it back to KL for his booking. He had reviewed it previously and planned to be there to try other things on the menu. They are famous for being one of the more elusive reservations in town, often requiring at least 2 months to get a spot.

The restaurant follows a “Barbecue Bistronomy” concept, with only 17 seats arranged around an open kitchen where everything is prepared over Japanese binchotan charcoal. The experience is intimate, allowing you to watch Chef Lau Ka Hong and his team manage the heat of the flame.

We were seated with a front row seat to the produce fridge and also a good view of the work going on in front of the fire.

Hard at work on preparing our first dish with the brioche being toasted.

Foie gras being shaved on to the toast.

The signature Kaya Toast was excellent, featuring crispy grilled brioche layered with kaya jam and finished with a generous shaving of frozen foie gras terrine. That set the bar for the night ahead.

The seasonal snack which consisted of a pineapple & salted egg tart and a Hanwoo bresaola ulam sushi. A bresoaloa is a traditional Italian way of air-drying salted aged beef. The tart was interesting with a custard like soft core that I did not expect.

The pork burger with a gribiche sauce (a French style egg sauce similar to mayonnaise but brighter) was another highlight. Miniature in size but incredibly juicy with a smoky, pink-centered patty. This was a flavour bomb.

Baby mushrooms with pearl onion, chestnut and dry abalone.

Burnt French leek with vichyssoise chimichurri, pinenut and pork ham.

The octopus, grilled to a perfect, tender texture, was a delight not only to behold but to consume.

The pork collar was made into a char siew glazed with Guinness and topped with grilled grapes.

I also found the Australian lamb saddle lovely. The green celeriac puree and white cashew nut chutney were fantastic complements to the lovely grilled lamb. The lamb was tender and moist and not gamey at all.

We were presented our piece of Hanwoo before it was served to us.

My expectations were set very high now, but alas I found to be a bit too salty for my liking.

Thankfully, the glass of Tyrrell’s ‘Lunatiq’ Shiraz (RM48 for a glass, RM250 for a bottle) I had mitigated that.

Bernice had a burnt soufflé to end her night.

Pricing

Kaya Toast with Shaved Foie Gras – RM50.00
Baby Mushroom – RM45
Burnt French Leek – RM48
Mini Pork Burger – RM20
Seasonal snack – RM48
Grilled Octopus – RM88
Local Pork Collar – RM88
Lamb Saddle – RM90.00
Hanwoo Ribeye Steak – RM472
Pulut Hitam & Gula Melaka souffle – RM30

Total bill with drinks, service charge and SST – RM1,380.20

Average of RM345 per pax

MVX Summary

Score: 8.2 / 10

M – Meal Value
At about RM345 per person, it is a premium price point. However, considering the high-end ingredients like Hanwoo and foie gras, combined with the technical skill required for charcoal grilling, the value is justified for a special occasion.
Score: 8.0/10

V – Venue & Vibes
The atmosphere is zero-pretence and focused entirely on substance. The industrial, no-frills setting with a concrete dining table creates a unique, intimate vibe where the kitchen is the stage.
Score: 8.5/10

X – X-Factor
The mastery of the binchotan grill is the clear draw. From the unique “shaved” presentation of foie gras to the perfectly charred edges of the meats, the restaurant offers a smoky refinement that is creating benchmarks in KL.
Score: 8.2/10

Business Hours
Thursday
06:00 pm to 10:00 pm

Friday to Sunday
11:30 am to 03:30 pm
06:00 pm to 10:00 pm

Closed on Monday to Wednesday