The Margin Paella
Western
Chiefeater Leyriesa Ann Tan was at the newly opened The Margin in mid March 2026 and found it an interesting concept


Beer, Tapas, Pork-Free
I was on the hunt for a place that served the Sarawak brewed 1602 beer and found myself at El Centro.


Although they had run out of the lager, they still had the pale ale available. Pale ales are known for their balance of malt and hop flavours, often showcasing a fruity, hoppy character. This makes them approachable and versatile, appealing to a wide range of beer enthusiasts.

The fruitiness of the 1602 pale ale was immediately noticeable and enjoyable. It was easy to drink, with a pleasant aroma and a refreshing finish that made it a perfect companion for a relaxing evening.

El Centro also offered a selection of tapas and snacks, so I decided to try the lamb slider and the grilled cheese focaccia (this was a happy accident). The lamb slider, shaped like a mini burger, had a good taste but the patty was too soft for my liking. It lacked the firm texture that I prefer in a meat patty.


On the other hand, the grilled cheese focaccia was a delightful surprise. The focaccia had a chewy and fluffy texture, almost similar to the texture of bang chang kueh, a type of Malaysian pancake.

The 1602 pale ale lived up to its reputation, and while the lamb slider wasn’t perfect, the grilled cheese focaccia was a hit. If you’re in Kota Kinabalu and looking for a quiet place to have beer and tapas, El Centro is worth a visit.
Business Hours
Sunday to Thursday
09:00 am to 11:00 pm
Friday and Saturday
09:00 am to 12:30 am
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