The Margin Paella
Western
Chiefeater Leyriesa Ann Tan was at the newly opened The Margin in mid March 2026 and found it an interesting concept


Fine Dining
Locus is the successor of Li which continues the legacy of a Melbournian twist to local dishes. The premises of Locus might only fit about 22 pax but it certainly packs a wallop in creating a wonderful dining experience. From starters to desserts, we enjoyed all the items we were served. Our host, Ziyan, helped us pick items from the menu that might suit my palate and I would say she hit the nail right on the head.


It was still Chinese New Year so we had a Yee Sang.

The prawn toast kicked us off. The prawn toast was a delightful crunch in the mouth.

Crab avocado tostada

Tomato and Strawberry Salad

Scallop Crudo

Tiger Prawn Curry. Chiefeater YW Looi found this spicy. I don’t know what he was talking about. LOL

Provisions Sourdough Toast with Honey Butter. The honey butter that came with the bread was a delight.

The charcoal fire grilled vegetables were just so full of flavour—a simple vegetable dish elevated to a smoky and tasty bite.

I particularly liked the tagliatelle because of how al-dente it was. It has a chewy bite which might not appeal to some, but as Ziyan explained, this was their homage to pan mee**rendered as a pasta.

The risotto was lovely, with the sweet and savoury blending well on the palate.

The duck tsukune (meatball) was also a delight; it reminded one of my guests of a firm pate.

My favourite items of the night was the BBQ Gulu Apong chicken done 2 ways, especially the chicken breast, which was tender and full of flavour.



Locus Cake

Seasonal Ice cream

To accompany us through the night, we had a Tyrrell’s Old Winery Chardonnay, which was a lovely choice to go with the meal. It had a citrusy zing with a nice buttery aftertaste.
Prawn Toast | Lime Prawn Mayo: RM19.00
Crab Avocado tostada: RM36.00
Scallop Crudo: 46.00
Tomato & Strawberry Salad: 35.00
Tiger Prawn Curry: 45.00
Provisions Bread with Honey Butter: RM16.00
BBQ Market Vegetables | Kombu Sauce: RM28.00
Pumpkin Risotto | Soy Caramel | Parmesan: RM36.00
Pasta of the Day (Tagliatelle): RM45.00
Duck Tsukune | Roselle | Potatoes: RM48.00
BBQ Gula Apong Chicken | Mashed Macadamia | Cabbage: RM78.00
Tyrrell’s Old Winery Chardonnay (Bottle): RM160.00
Total with drinks, service charge and SST – RM1,018
Average Spend was RM216 per pax
Score: 8.5/10
M – Meal Value
The pricing reflects the high-quality local produce and the technical skill involved in the kitchen. While it sits at a higher price point than a typical cafe, the elevation of simple ingredients like market vegetables and chicken breast into standout dishes offers great value for a premium dining experience.
Score: 8.0/10
V – Venue & Vibes
The space is intimate and cozy, limited to just 22 pax (with the big table seating 16 pax), which creates a focused and personal atmosphere. The service, led by Ziyan, is attentive and knowledgeable, making the small footprint feel like an exclusive chef’s table experience.
Score: 8.5/10
X – X-Factor
The X-factor is the technical reimagining of local nostalgia. Transforming the soul of a pan mee into an al-dente tagliatelle and using Gula Apong with charcoal fire demonstrates a sophisticated “Melbournian-Malaysian” identity that is unique to the Li lineage.
Score: 9.0/10
Business Hours
Wednesday to Saturday
06:00 pm to 11:00 pm
Sunday
12:00 pm to 3:00 pm
Closed on Monday and Tuesday
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