The Margin Paella
Western
Chiefeater Leyriesa Ann Tan was at the newly opened The Margin in mid March 2026 and found it an interesting concept


Beef Noodles, Pork-Free
I’m a latecomer to the pleasures of beef noodles. Specifically, the beef SOUP noodle type.
Somehow, I just never ate a version anywhere that was good enough to impress me – they were all too watery, like reconstituted Bovril, and were measly in their helpings. I still enjoyed beef noodles though, but only the dry or kon loe type.
Then a few days ago, I saw a post on beef soup noodles by Chris Tan . It looked absolutely scrumptious. Then I checked the location. ICC Pudu … wasn’t that also where the famous Ah Weng Koh Hainan Tea Stall relocated?
Ok, I had more than one motivation to go now.

Kuan Soo Beef Noodle stall was located in the halal section of the food court. It was manned by a stout man whose sharp features oddly reminded me of a Marlon Brando in The Godfather.
I ordered ONE bowl first – want to make sure it’s nice mah, otherwise waste money. The uncle didn’t try to upsell me to another one, but just quietly took my order and began working on it.
The bowl of noodles arrived quickly at Kuan Soo Beef Noodle.
The bowl of beef noodles was heaped, absolutely HEAPED, with chunks of brisket, tripe, stomach, and beefballs, for only RM10.
Not skimpy with ingredients – good sign.
I took a sip. And another one. And another.
After I’d polished half of it, I gave it to my husband. I studied his face intently to check if he had my same reaction.
His eyebrows flew up in shock.
“Woah.”
There was such incredible depth of flavour and body – much more than ANY of the famous beef noodles stalls I’ve eaten in KL.
Minutes later, I shuffled back meekly to the stall where the uncle was standing with arms akimbo. I can’t be sure, but I think I saw the hint of a smile curl up the sides of his lips, as if to say, “I KNEW you’d come back for more.”
After finishing our two bowls of beef noodles at Kuan Soo Beef Noodle and restraining ourselves with much difficulty from ordering another one, I went and chatted Uncle up. He used to sell in Pudu, and he opens everyday from 6+am to 1pm-ish, which was now.
Phew, we barely made it in time to catch what must be the last few bowls.
Folks, for the best beef soup noodles of your life, head over to Kuan Soo Beef Noodles stall in ICC Pudu. You will not regret it.
Business hours: 7am–1pm or finishes (Closed Monday)
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