The Margin Paella
Western
Chiefeater Leyriesa Ann Tan was at the newly opened The Margin in mid March 2026 and found it an interesting concept


Indonesian, Nasi Padang, Pork-Free
I found myself taking the LRT into the heart of Kuala Lumpur one day, wandering around looking for an early lunch. Chow Kit isn’t an area I’ve really explored. Then I spotted the signboard for Restoran Nasi Kapau Masakan Minang across the road. Being in the mood for nasi padang, the famous mixed rice dish from Indonesia, I crossed the road to check out this place.
The nasi padang at Kapau can be either served nasi kandar-style, with the server putting helpings of pre-cooked dishes directly on your plate of rice, or with those dishes served in individual small plates. I got a heaping of yam leaves cooked in turmeric and coconut milk, a deep fried catfish and multiple helpings of local vegetables. It only cost me RM13 with a glass of cold lime juice.

The grilled petai packed a lovely umami flavor but you also have to be willing to tolerate the stink afterwards. The yam leaves were spicy and creamy but for me, the star of the show was the mixed gravy taken from multiple meat curries and stews. It had a very different taste to the typical nasi kandar mixed gravy, having a lighter load of aromatic spices yet being more creamy, with the typical heat from nasi padang dishes. There was also plenty of heat from the servings of fried sambal made from green and red chillies.
Apparently the cook at Nasi Kapau is from the highlands of Sumatra, Indonesia so this is as authentic as it gets in these parts. The restaurant has a small eating area so expect a packed crowd during lunch.
Take the Monorail to the Medan Tuanku station.

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