Tanjung Ria Kitchen Signature Oxtail Assam Pedas
Malaysian
- RM50 - RM100 per pax
Tanjung Ria Kitchen at Hyatt Regency Kota Kinabalu serves a generous RM78 Oxtail Assam Pedas with spicy gravy and excellent service


Fine Dining
If Chiefeater Luke Soon had not arranged this dinner, I probably would not have discovered just how good Terra Dining is.
Terra Dining is now a one Michelin star restaurant, earning its first star in the Michelin Guide Kuala Lumpur & Penang 2026. Michelin describes Chef Chong as self-taught, using Malaysian produce in a French-leaning tasting menu while bringing distinctly local flavours into the cooking.


The kitchen team behind the wonders at Terra Dining.

Terra isn’t trying to make Malaysian food look fancy for the sake of it. There are recognisable references throughout the meal, but Chef Chong takes them apart and puts them together in ways that can make you stop and think about something you’ve eaten countless times before. Terra itself describes its approach as making “the familiar unfamiliar”, while still keeping the food unmistakably Malaysian.
Dinner began with canapés reflecting Malaysia’s three dominant culinary cultures, Malay, Chinese and Indian classics recreated with dollops of creativity.
Then we moved into the Inert.ia tasting menu.

The first listed course was Blini, Smoked Pike Conger Serunding Mousse and Caviar. It sets up something that continues throughout the meal: familiar Malaysian ideas appearing in forms you don’t necessarily expect.

Next came the Fried Mochi, Shiitake, Tofu and “Duckkwa”, followed by Salted Egg Mung Bean Curry, Onion Jam, Cauliflower and Poppadom.

Taken together with the opening bites, there is quite a bit going on already. Yet it doesn’t feel like a checklist of Malaysian flavours. The references are there, but the kitchen has enough confidence to play with them rather than simply reproduce them.
Then came one of the more interesting ideas of the evening.
The Squid, “Laksabayon”, Sarawak Laksa XO Sauce and Cucumberbrings two very different laksa traditions together. The laksabayon draws from the flavours of Terengganu’s white laksam, while the other side of the dish heads across the country towards Sarawak laksa. It sounds like the sort of combination that could become confused very quickly, but the connection works. Tatler similarly describes Terra’s laksabayon as being inspired by Terengganu white laksa flavours.

The Slipper Lobster was out of season so they replaced it with Tiger Prawn. Together with Otak-otak, Bamboo Clam and Celtucecontinued that theme of taking recognisable flavours and changing their context.

After that, Heirloom Tomato, Tomato Water and Rasam Oil was a lighter interlude before the fish.

The menu calls the next dish simply Mystery Fish, Masak Lemak Beurre Blanc, Pandan and Chayote Leaves. There’s a bit of fun behind that name because the fish changes according to what is available, and you’re invited to work out what you’re eating. The charcoal-grilled fish is complemented with a masak lemak-inspired beurre blanc, and the accompanying flatbread is there to mop up the sauce.

And you do want the flatbread for that sauce.

We chose the Pureblood Wagyu, Rendang Beef Cheek and Thai Basil Palak option for the main course, which carries an additional RM200 supplement. This was deftly executed.
With an ingredient like Wagyu, there is always the temptation to do too much around it. Here, the beef was treated with respect. Beautifully cooked, still pink through the centre, it had enough around it to make the course interesting without losing sight of what should be the star of the plate.

The accompanying rendang beef cheek and Thai basil palakgave the dish its Malaysian and regional character. The contrast between the Wagyu and the deeper, slow-cooked character of the cheek was particularly enjoyable.

By this point, though, Terra was certainly making sure nobody was leaving hungry.
The transition into dessert started with Guava & Kedondong Sorbet with Sour Plum, bringing acidity and freshness after the heavier main.

Then came something I wouldn’t have thought of putting together myself – Carrot Halwa Tart, Pistachio, Thosai Ice Cream and Mango Chutney.
Yes, you read right. Thosai ice cream.
That’s not something the mind wraps itself around particularly easily until you actually eat it. But that’s what Chef Chong came up with, taking something deeply familiar and moving its flavour into an entirely different form.

Dessert wasn’t finished yet. There was still the petit fours.

There was Pandan Sponge with Caramelised Banana, followed by White Corn, Sablé Breton and Century Egg.

Snowskin Ang Ku with Cashew “Char Siu” Praline and Beetroot, followed by Malaysian Chocolate with Cacao Nibs.


By the time those final bites disappeared, we were very, very full. But it had been a fascinating dinner.
It was at this point that they finally revealed the Mystery Fish to us. It was a red snapper which had been aged to give it a firmer texture and prevent it from flaking. Even Chiefeater Luke Soon, who eats a lot of fish, was stumped by the identity of the fish.
The Inert.ia tasting menu with the Wagyu was RM768++ per person for our dinner.
The duck option would have been RM568++ per person.
We added foie gras to our meal which was RM100++ extra.
And we paired our meal with a bottle of Château d’Armailhac 2013 – RM450++
MVX Score: 9.0/10
M – Meal Value
This is unquestionably an expensive dinner, but there is a lot of food and considerable thought, technique and work across the tasting menu. We certainly didn’t leave wondering whether we’d eaten enough.
Score: 8.5/10
V – Venue
Terra is restrained rather than ostentatious. Warm timber, muted colours and widely spaced tables create an intimate dining room where attention stays primarily on the food.
Score: 9.0/10
X – X-Factor
The Malaysian identity. Terra isn’t merely adding local ingredients to contemporary European cooking. The references run through the meal, from laksam and Sarawak laksa to masak lemak, rendang, thosai and ang ku, but Chef Chong keeps finding unexpected ways of expressing them.
Score: 9.5/10
Tuesday to Saturday
06:00 pm to 12:00 am
Closed on Sunday and Monday
Chiefeater VK paid for this meal himself and reflect this own views
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