Esquina Lunch
Spanish
Chiefeater Luke Soon had lunch at Esquina on Keong Saik Road, reflecting on its Catalan and Barcelona-style cooking over the years


Sarawak Laksa, Pork-Free
I saw another review of Lao Mao Cafe and decided to try. Definitely not a connoisseur of Sarawak Laksa (or any laksa variant), and have no basis for comparison except having had it at Alexis Jalan Telawi and Gardens for the past 2 decades.
I’d call out the chilli paste, which brought it home for me: the sambal had prawniness imbued, almost pungent. Might not be everyone’s cuppa but I do like my condiments oomph-ful. The soup base and noodles are on point, the soup zesty, tangy, coconutty, umami – all the good things making a Sarawak Laksa a Sarawak Laksa. I’d rate this slightly above Alexis’ version.
The owner (didn’t get her name) had friends and family visiting the shop – so I was the only paying diner. Nonetheless the place was quaint, warm and friendly – pet friendly! We had the regulars bring their dogs, beautiful (huge) golden retrievers. I saw tables talking to each other, reminding me of an Italian cucina. Nice vibes.

The menu at Lao Mao was focused on a few specials: Sarawak laksa and Assam Laksa the owner said, were her specialities. But there were other morsels of interest: beef noodles, curry puff. Small menus give me confidence the the chef gets a lot of practise in, and alot of feedback, tweaks over the years. That certainly came through in the bowl of Sarawak Laksa.
Business Hours
Monday to Friday
11:00 am – 09:00 pm
Saturday and Sunday
11:00 am – 10:00 pm
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